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Rysy

Iš viso pasaulio, o taip pat ir iš Lietuvos kalnų mylėtojus it magnetas traukiantys didingi Tatrai, savo smailomis pavojingomis viršūnėmis suviliojo, žinoma, ir mus. Didelis privalumas keliauti į šiuos kalnus: santykinai arti, pasiekiama automobiliu per vieną dieną, šalys „pigios“ ir svetingos, nebūtinas specialus pasirengimas, o keliaujantiems žiemą – šalia įprasto laipiojimo visada bus ir slidinėjimo kurortų pasirinkimas.
Na, o viena aukščiausių viršūnių Aukštuosiuose Tatruose ir pati aukščiausia visoje Lenkijoje – Rysy, tikrai verta dėmesio. Išbandėme.
Pirmą kartą šią viršūnę pasiekti nusprendėm dar žiemą (2017-01-10). Į Rysy lipti galima iš Slovakijos arba iš Lenkijos pusės, kadangi per pačią viršūnę eina siena, skirianti šias kaimynines šalis. Tikėdamiesi dar ir paslidinėti tikrai neprastose Slovakijos slidinėjimo trasose – pasirinkome maršrutą būtent iš Slovakijos pusės. Atvykome į šalį iškart po krituliais gausių pūgų, todėl sniego buvo… kaip pasakoj. Slidinėjimas nenuvylė, kopimui į kalną pasirinkome giedriausią iš visų dienų, tačiau viršūnės nepasiekėme. Trumpai apie tos dienos nepasisekimą: kėlėmės šeštą ryto, pradėjome eiti dar tamsoje. Sniego vietomis buvo iki kaklo, o toks klampojimas atėmė labai daug jėgų. Trasos žymėjimo, aišku, nematyti, nes viskas, net medžiai, giliai po sniegu. Kopiant aukštyn it slidi pluta sukietėjęs sniegas pareikalavo kačių, be jų kelionė būtų pasibaigusi dar anksčiau. Pora kartų nuklydome nuo trasos, o tikslas buvo pasiekti viršūnę iki antros valandos popiet, kad spėtume sugrįžti (ketvirtą jau temsta). Nakvoti gūdžiuose miškuose tikrai nesinorėjo, juolab prie -17! Pasiekę 2200m aukštį nusprendėme nerizikuoti ir neieškoti nelaimių – išvargę, sušalę ir kupini įspūdžių grįžome į namus.


Tačiau labai greitai sugrįžom! Deja, šįkart negalėjom sau leisti rinktis giedresnės dienos, nes turėjome ją tik vieną. Ir, aišku, lijo. 🙂 Bet pradėkim nuo pradžių.
Apsistojome Štrbske Pleso miestelyje, „Pension pleso“ viešbutyje.

Nuo jo iki Rysy buvo vos 1,5 kilometro. Atsikėlę anksti ryte, su automobiliu pasiekėme Aukštųjų Tatrų nacionalinio parko automobilių stovėjimo aikštelę. Čia automobilį pasilikti valandai laiko kainuoja 2 eurus, o jei visai dienai – 8 eurus. Toliau važiuoti nebegalima, reikia nemažai kelio tiesiog eiti nacionaliniu parku.



Kopti į kalną pradedama nuo ežero Popradske Pleso (google žemėlapiuose turėtumėte lengvai rasti). Lipimas į Rysy nebuvo lengvas pasivaikščiojimas. Nuolat lynojo, akmenys buvo labai slidūs.



Tikėjomės, kad bus šiek tiek sniego, bet jo buvo tikrai daug. Einant ne su žieminiais, o su vasariniais žygio batais – kojos slysta ir buvo vietų kur pasinaudojome virve, kad nereiktų kaip kitiems kopusiems išsivolioti sniege ar čiuožti ant užpakalio ir kartais netyčia atsitrenkti į kokį akmenį. Lipant statesnėmis vietomis yra pritvirtintos grandinės. Jeigu turite apraišus – bus saugiau, o ir pasimokyti naudotis karabinais čia visai įdomu. Tačiau alpinistiniai apraišai čia tikrai NEBŪTINI.


Pasiekus Chata pod Rysmi (2250) – galima gauti pavalgyti, atsigerti. Kava čia kainuoja tiek pat, kiek Laisvės alėjoje. Šioje vietoje jau buvo šalta, vos +11. Todėl patarimas – kopiant net vasarą įsidėti šiltesnių rūbų ir galbūt atsarginių, jei paslystumėte ar sušlaptumėte. Nuo Chata pod Rysmi iki viršūnės kelio jau visai nedaug, nepilnai valanda. Tačiau patekę į debesį matome vos kelis metrus į priekį ir suprantame, kad viršūnė nebus vaizdinga…




Kopėme sekmadienį, bet žmonių buvo tarsi skruzdėlyne, reikia saugoti save ir kitus, nes kartais koja ne ten ir krūvelė akmenų gali nuriedėti apačion.
Viršūnė paskendusi „piene“. Jei gerai supratom – šis kalnas kviečia į svečius trečią kartą. Žinoma, jis tikrai bus!


Keletas praktinių patarimų:
-Nuomokitės gyventi kuo arčiau, – tada nereikės taip anksti keltis.
-Pasirūpinkite neperšlampama avalyne ir pasiruoškite sniegui! Tinka bet kas: katės, kopimo lazdos, virvė.
-Specialaus fizinio pasirengimo šiam kalnui nereikia, svarbu patogi avalynė ir kuprinė. Buvo žmonių, lipančių su mažamečiais vaikais. Tačiau per daug nenuvertinkite Rysy viršūnės, – kartais ji gali tapti pavojinga.
-Lipant kai nesimato trasos ženklinimo (pvz žiemą) arba norint paklaidžioti kitomis trasomis – puiki programėlė su GPS „Trails Tatra Mountains“, kurią galite parsisiųsti tiesiog į savo mobilųjį.
Filmuką iš kelionės į Rysy galite peržiūrėti paspaudę čia:

Dinara

Dinara – aukščiausia vieta Kroatijoje, kuri turistams dar mažai žinoma. Šis kalnas yra vienas aukščiausių Dinarų kalnyne ir pūpso riboje tarp Kroatijos bei Bosnijos ir Hercegovinos. Kalno aukštis – 1831m.
Svarbu paminėti, kad Dinaros kalnas, nors ir neypatingai aukštas, suteikia galimybę pasimėgauti įstabiais vaizdais ir yra pakankamai „draugiškas“, nes į jį be didelio vargo neskubant galėtų įlipti ir vyresnis vaikas, ir senyvo amžiaus žmogus.
Šalia lietuviams gerai žinomo nuostabaus grožio Splito regiono yra žymiai mažesnis Knino miestas. Būtent jo ieškodami ir pradėjome savo kelionę aukščiausios Kroatijos vietos link.
Taigi penkiese (keturi suaugę ir vienas paauglys) nusprendėme leistis į šią kelionę. Mėgstam pamiegot ir paplepėt prie kavos puodelio, todėl nors ir planavom išvažiuoti iš Bibinje miestelio vos prašvitus (atstumas iki Knino 104km važiuojant mokamu keliu) – kelyje buvome tik apie 9 valandą ryto. Na ir žinoma kur visi klaidžiojimai ieškant pigesnės benzino kolonėlės arba ginčijantis dėl to, kuria navigacija naudosimės šįkart…
Ilgai netrukus privažiavome Knino miestą. Suradus šį miestą naudojantis kelio ženklais buvo nesunku surasti ir siaurom gatvelėm išraizgytą Kovačičiaus miestelį. Daug apleistų pastatų kvietė sustot ir pasivaikščiot po griuvėsius, pasivaišint prisirpusiom vynuogėm, figom, granatais. Sutikti vietiniai žmonės nemokėjo nei angliškai, nei rusiškai, iš gandų žinojome, kad šiame regione serbų netgi daugiau, nei kroatų, todėl kai paklausdavome kur rasti Dinarą – sulaukdavome tik pagūžčiojimo pečiais. Tačiau Dinarą mes jau matėme…

Buvom atkaklūs ir visgi sulaukėm atsakymo – turim surasti gatvę pavadinimu Ulica fra Petra Kneževica. Gatvelių daug, bet pati nuojauta pakuždėjo kur sukti ir netrukus pamatėm nuorodą link Dinaros.
Važiuodami link Dinaros apsidžiaugėm, kad esam su visureigiu, nes vieškelis praktiškai nevažinėjamas, daug aštrių akmenų ir tai buvo tikras išbandymas tiek vairuotojui, tiek automobiliui. Pavažiavus kiek tolėliau kelias išsiskyrė į dvi dalis: į dešinę – karinis poligonas, į kairę – Dinara. Pripažinsiu, jautėmės ne itin jaukiai, sutiktus žmones stebino turistai iš Europos. O ką kalbėt apie karinius automobilius ir užrašus „attack line“. Minčių kilo įvairių.

Iš Kovačič miestelio lipama į kalną populiariausiu – vakariniu maršrutu. Beveik kilometrą galima važiuoti su automobiliu, kol prasideda tikrasis lipimas į kalną. Automobilį galima pasilikti prie miško trobelės pavadinimu „Brezovac“, kur esant reikalui žmonės ir pernakvoja. Nors iki trobelės važiuoti apie 15 kilometrų, bet kelionė tampa tikrai ilga dėl labai prasto kelio. Norint padidint greitį bent iki 40km/h kelionė gali greitai pasibaigti, todėl tenka kantriai ir lėtai riedėti link tikslo… Tiesa, kantrybės prireikia tik vairuotojui, nes pro automobilio langus matosi nuostabūs kalnų vaizdai, avių bandos, keletas vietinių žmonių su senoviškais automobiliais ir pripažinsim – hipnotizuoja. Jautėmės tarsi būdami visai kitame amžiuje…
Suradę Brezovac trobelę pasilikome automobilį ir leidomės į kelionę mišku. Kartu su mumis lipo du pagyvenę serbai, jie pasakojo, kad į Dinarą lipa jau trečią kartą, nes jų šalyje tai tarsi sveikos gyvensenos etalonas. Beje, jie taip pat nei angliškai, nei rusiškai nekalbėjo. Vienas jų ir vienas mūsų mokėjo vokiškai, – todėl bendrauti pavyko ir patiko.
Kiek paėjus miško takeliu atsiveria nuostabaus grožio pievos, tolumoje matosi kalnai ir vienas gyvenamas namas.

Jau įdienojus pradėjome kopti ir į patį kalną. Kur ne kur esantys akmenys buvo pažymėti baltai raudonais ženklais – supratome, kad taip žymimas kelias. Serbai nurūko priekyje mūsų, kol mes lekavom iš karščio.



Viršutinis kalno trečdalis įveikiamas kiek sunkiau, keliukai labai siauri ir nelygūs, kopimas darosi vis statesnis, o ir atsiveriantis Knino miesto vaizdas gniaužia kvapą taip, kad negali nespoksot.

Pasiekus viršūnę galima užsiregistruoti specialioje knygoje.Tiesa, pervertę knygą lietuvių parašų nepastebėjom.

Ant kalno stovi baltas metalinis kryžius. Vaizdai – na… Reikia pamatyt.


Į Dinarą įlipti galima per 2 valandas, tačiau neskubant ir norint pasigrožėt gali prireikti ir 4. Užlipę į kalną pasivaišinom čia atsitemptais makaronais, serbai siūlė savo tradicinio sūrio ir dalinosi ugnim.

Valandą padrybsoję ir „prisigėrę“ gaivių Kroatijos bei kitoje pusėje – Dinarų kalnyno vaizdų nusileidome žemyn.
Ar reikalingas fizinis pasirengimas lipant į šį kalną? Kai +30 gali būti sunku. Bet tai individualu.
Ar reikalingos specialios priemonės – nors kiti keli sutikti benusileidžiantys keliautojai buvo su kopimo lazdomis, mes kildami vakariniu maršrutu jų nepasigedom. Leidžiantis nuo kalno kojas tikrai paskausta, būtų geriau tvirta, pėdas apspaudžianti avalynė, bet vienas komandos narys užlipo su „Crocs“ tapkėm, taip kad reziumė – Dinara nepavojingas, bet tiek papėdėje, tiek viršūnėje vaizdais turtingas kalnas, į kurį rekomenduojam ir pradedantiesiems.

Marshall, Lincoln and Welland Regiment, Jan

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